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Big Book of Favorite Crochet Patterns (Dover Knitting, Crochet, Tatting, Lace)
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Stylish Clothes Crochet Patterns Book 274 pages Dress Collar Skirt Top Duplet Special Issue Irish Lace 4
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Stylish Clothes Crochet Patterns Book 183 pages Dress Collar Skirt Top Duplet Special Issue Irish Lace 3
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Irish Crochet: Technique and Projects (Dover Knitting, Crochet, Tatting, Lace)
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Complete Crochet Course: The Ultimate Reference Guide
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Women BOHO Summer Lace Top Free Crochet Patterns: lace poncho, tunic top
CROCHET – Free Crochet Patterns & Crochet Inspiration
I am so excited to share something new…the Shelby Top, a free crochet top pattern! This lace crochet top is just what your summer wardrobe needs!
Crochet clothes
crochet Elegant Lace Tank Top easy pattern
Crochet top
UNE FLEUR – FLOWER LIKE LADIES TOP Yet another superb pattern that was shared by the lovely +Clara Isabel and with this really superb DMC Petra yarn, I found something unique that I think will do both this pattern and yarn justice. I think this top looks just like a flower, whatchathink? J The Pinterest link https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279834864692/ As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you… and here’s the picture that inspired me to work on this superb top. Materials used : Today I’ve used the superbly soft DMC Petra (5) knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook For Indians : DMC Petra is like our superb Indian H.P Peecock knitting cotton or a little thinner than our Indian Red Rose or our Anchor knitting cotton in thickness. With our Red Rose knitting cotton I’d say that some colours vary in thickness.. I found, for e.g. that the black is really much thinner than the other colours. Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced. The stitches, per se, are not difficult at all. The combination of stitches, and the calculations involved though required some Advanced skills. This is mainly because the chart only gives one basic bit for the yoke, which is a little difficult to explain. I’ve tried my best, so I do hope you’ll have as much fun as I am. Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology) fsc : Foundation single crochet dc : Double crochet ch : chain ch-sp : chain space sp : space rep : Repeat dc 3-tog : Double Crochet 3-together Stitches used : fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/ Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 2-tog made. In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start. dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 4-tog made. How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8 Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. Our pattern starts at the shoulders and we work our way down yoke of the top to the body. So we will start with one shoulder, work our way for a few rows down, and then fasten off. We will then work on the second shoulder, work till the same point as for the first side, and then join up and work in rows side to side. This pattern is the same for the back and front. However, if you wish , you could make the back a lot higher than the front, so you will work from Row 1 with the same pattern. This is the tweak or difference that will decide your creativity. I am therefore, going to state that you need to make two front pieces and you decide if you want this dipped neckline or you want it straight up to the top for the back. Our pattern repeat is 20 + 1 FRONT : (Make two) Start with 21 fsc for one side of your shoulder. Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; (ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ; rep (to) once ; ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; rep (to) 2 times. Turn. Row 2 : (dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the 1st sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, 3 dc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, [2 dc, ch 1, dc] all in the last sc. Turn. Now per this chart, it looks like we’re working a new stitch. Do bear with me as I try to explain this to you. Arrow-head stitch : This is not the name of this stitch, and I don’t think such a stitch exists, but this is what we’re going to refer to this stitch as. Now usually when we do this particular arrow-shaped stitch, we work a set of 4 dc in one row, and then on the following row we will work a dc 4-tog over the 4 dc and make it an arrow head. However, in this chart, the designer has clubbed both of these movements into one. So this means that you will first work the 4 dc, TURN and work the dc 4-tog over the same 4 dc, turn again and then work in the needed direction for the next stitch. So remember for this stitch, that I am calling the Arrow-head stitch, we’re working two rows for this one stitch. Our Arrow-head stitch is worked over 3 dc as follows : {[dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ; Turn and work dc 4-tog over the same 4 dc just made ; then Turn again} Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ; ch 2, {[dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ; Turn and work dc 4-tog over the same 4 dc just made ; then Turn again} ; {ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc} ; ch 3, rep {to} once ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn. Great.. we’ve worked a new stitch / creation. Hence forth, we will call this the Arrow-head stitch and when you read these words, you need to work the 4 dc first, and then work the dc 4-tog over them, all in one swoop. Yaay.. let’s carry on. Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn. The following row has our new Arrow head stitch again. Remember its two rows in one. This is our neckline edge. Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ; ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn. From this row on, we’ll use a “V”-st. Our “V”-st for this pattern will be ( 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ) all in the same ch-sp. Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, 2 dc i
n the same ch-1 sp) ; ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , “V”-st in the last “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the last dc. Ch 51 and fasten off, leaving a small tail for attachment. We’ve completed one side of the shoulder and the ch-51 will be the ch that goes across the top of the chest. Now, our pattern repeat remains 20, but the extra sts are for either side of the neckline. As stated before, I am unable to write a proper stitch count repeat as its given only for one size, which seems to be right for me. I am, however, assuming that if it does not work for you, (i.e if you think ch 51 is insufficient for the neckline), then add 20 sts to it which is one stitch count repeat, and it should work. Right then. Start with the fsc once again and work Rows 1 – 6 for the other side of the shoulder to neckline. Remember you are doing a mirror image, so if you are particular about the wrong and right side of your work, you will need to mirror the instructions for Rows 5 and 6. (i.e ensure you get the armhole and neckline sides right, as there are extra stitches only for the neckline side) Once you’ve done both the shoulder – Row 6, join the ch-51 to the end of the dc of Row 6 of second side just done. Fasten off and re-fasten your yarn to the armhole end of Row 6. We will now work in continuous rows from side to side (i.e armhole to armhole). Note for back : These are instructions for the Front of your top. If you wish to do the same for the back with a deep neck, then great, you follow instructions exactly. If not, then you will start with the pattern repeat for back and work the pattern all the way from the shoulder down – attaching the shoulders for front and back as usual. In the following row, we will work on the stitches of one side of the shoulder, and then we will work on the 51 chain made, and then the stitches on the other side of the shoulder. For convenience, I will call all of the chains in this 51-ch sp “stitches” or sts. Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; {ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ; ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc} ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, work “Arrow-head st” over the next 3 sts ; [ch 3, sk next 3 sts, dc in the next sc ; ch 5, dc in the same st] ; (ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st ; rep (to) 3 times ; rep [to] once ; ch 3, sk next 3 sts, work “Arrow-head st” over the next 3 sts ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} once ; ch 2, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn. Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; {ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , “V”-st in the next “V”-st} ; ch 3, sk next sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-2 sps and sc , 3 dc in the next sc ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} once ; ch 3, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1 , dc in the last dc. Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; {ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ; ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc} ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} 4 times ending with ch 2, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn. Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; {ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , “V”-st in the next “V”-st} ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-2 sps and sc , 3 dc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} once ; ch 3, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1 , dc in the last dc. Row 11 – 12 : Rep Rows 9 and 10 Row 13 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ; {ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ; ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc} ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} 4 times ending with “V”-st in the last ch-1 sp. Turn. Row 14 : “V”-st in the 1st “V’-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same 1st “V”-st ; *ch 3, sk next arrow-head st, 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sk next arrow-head st, (“V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same “V”-st)* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 15 : “V”-st in the 1st “V’-st ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; *ch 3, sc in the next dc ; (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 16 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; *ch 3, sk the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 17 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; *ch 3, sk the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 18 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , [dc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the same sc] ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; *ch 3, sk the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep [to] once ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 19 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; (ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; [ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 5, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 20 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; (ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc) ; *ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 3, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. We’ve now completed the yoke portion of our top and will proceed for the lower repeated portion. Now for conveninece, I’m going to start renumbering our rows . Please note for all repeat Row instructions given under, it is a repeat of these new rows we’re working on now. Please do not confuse them with the instructions given for yoke. Thanks Body of top Row 1 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; *ch 5, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ; (ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc) ; ch 3, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next “V”-st* ; rep *to* till end. Turn. Row 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp , dc in the same ch-2 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; *ch 4, sk Arrowhead st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 4, sk next Arrowhead st, s
c in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 4, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 4, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last “V”-st ch-2 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same last ch-2 sp. Turn. Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc , ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; *ch 5, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ; (ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc) ; ch 3, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ; ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st * ; rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last ch-sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn. Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; *ch 4, sk Arrowhead st, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 4, sk next Arrowhead st, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn. Row 5 – 22 : Rep Rows 3 and 4 to work the pattern for the body of the top, ending with a Row 4. Now here’s where it gets a little tricky. Take a look at the finished pattern. There’s a largish pineapple pattern that completes the base of this top. So I’ve worked as per pattern and worked till Row 23 on body, and find that this works great for me. However, if you find that you want a longer length for your top, may I suggest that you repeat Rows 3 and 4 till you thinkg you have the length you need. Remember though that we will be adding 12 rows for the large pineapple border, so may I suggest you check your gauge and see how many inches make up 12 rows for you and decide on the number of repeats (for Rows 3 & 4) accordingly. Meanwhile, let’s carry on with the tail end of our pattern. Row 23 : dc in the 1st dc , dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; *ch 5, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ; (ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc) ; ch 3, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same “V”-st] * ; rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last ch-sp ; ch 1, dc in the same last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn. Row 24 : sl-st into the 1st ch-sp , “V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ; *ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sk next Arrowhead st, 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sk next Arrowhead st, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 4, “V’-sts in the next two ch-2 sps * ; rep *to* till end, ending with a “V”-st in the last ch-1 sp.Turn. From the following row, we’ll work one pineapple “V” at a time. So we will work back and forth on the first set of pineapple stitches, complete this first set, fasten off and then re-attach to work the next pineapple. The ‘dividing’ point will be the two “V’-sts that come between the 9 dcs. The 9 dc’s obviously will work out each pineapple pattern. Row 24 : sl-st into the 1st ch-sp , “V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 5, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ; ch 5, “V’-st in the next “V’-st. Turn Row 25 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 6 times ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 26 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 5 times ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 27 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 28 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 29 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 30 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to)once ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 31 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 32 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 5, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. Row 33 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn. In our final row, we’ll use our dc 2-tog. Row 34 : ch 3, dc 2-tog in the next two “V”-sts ; ch 3, sk next dc (of 2nd “V”-st) and join with a sl-st in the last dc. Fasten off and weave in ends. One pineapple border in the shape of “V” is complete. We will now work Rows 24 – 34 for each of our borders. Re-attach your yarn in the 2nd of the “V”-sts of Row 23 – i.e you have used one “V”-st for the first pineapple, and you’d added one “V”-st in Row 23. So you use that second “V’-st for the next pineapple “V” border. Work the last ten border rows for each set of pineapples all the way to the end. Fasten off and weave in all ends. We have completed one half of your top. Repeat all instructions from the start for the other side of your top. Border : Attach the shoulders and sides of your top. There is a border that’s given for the neckline that you may want to try. Start Round 1 : with a round of sc all around the neckline in multiples of 3 + 1. Round 2 : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) all around ; ch 3, join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Round 3 : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) all around ; ch 3, join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Note : In the final round of our border, we will do a sc that will ‘envelope and go around’ the two chains made in Rounds 2 and 3, and then work in the sc of the Start Round 1. In Round 1, we have three skipped sc ; so we will work our dc in the centre sc of this skipped 3 sc-set. In our final border round, we’ll also use our decorative picot stitch. In this pattern, we will use the 3-ch picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch). Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc + picot in the same ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, work a sc around chains of Rounds 2 and 3, into the sc of Round 1) ; rep (to) all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. There is a chart (of sorts) for sleeves too. However, the recipient of this top wanted a sleeveless one, so no notes for the sleeves. That said, IF you do make sleeves and would like to add your notes here, then hey, that’s helping someone else who is unable to read a chart – so thanks in advance, Good Samaritan. And we’re done!! YES!! .. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns If you’re visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box. I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks. Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage or join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360 for more patterns. Have a great day and see you soon. J I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go J http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/02/easy-one-piece-shelled-bolero.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/01/exquisite-floral-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/01/half-n-half-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/12/margas-floral-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/12/shelled-cropped-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/11/pineapple-halter-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2015/09/latticed-cropped-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/08/snowflakes-shells-motif-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/07/strappy-spider-vest.html http://shyamaniva
s.blogspot.in/2015/02/simple-n-lovely-sleeveless-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/12/brilliantly-unusual-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/10/autumny-leafy-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/10/out-of-ordinary-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/11/diagonal-shelled-vest.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/03/diamond-vest.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/08/spotted-at-spotlight.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/04/shifas-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/04/graces-sleeveless-pineapple-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/04/a-superb-shelled-top-lately-it-feels.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/05/daisy-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2015/06/lotus-neck-top.html http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/06/cyn-fully-beautiful-top.html
Shawls
Hi all! I have something new for you today, the Nightfall Shawl. My love for crochet shawls continues to grow and I have plenty of ideas and a lot of enthusiasm to put them in practice. This time the purpose of this …
crochet tops
Advertisements With the summer season on its way, let`s use that time to renew our wardrobes. And there is nothing better than wearing a crochet top that you made yourself. Therefore feel free to find some inspiration in today`s collection of Breezy Summer Tops. Because they are made with lacy…
Crochet clothes
crochet Boho Halter Crop Top pattern
